Everything You Need to Know About Gemstone Cuts

Old cut (or old european cut) diamonds are the gentler parent of the round brilliant cut. These OG diamonds have a softer, warmer lustre than the brilliant shine of a modern diamond.

Old Cut diamonds always have a small recognisable facet at the very centre of the stone. When you look at it from above, it looks like there is a hole in the middle! Because these diamonds were hand-cut, they’re never going to be symmetrical. But this gives them a unique character you just can’t replace!

Like its name suggests, this gem cut is cushion shaped! With a square outer shape, and a rounded profile and corners, this gemstone cut is a winner with lovers of classic and modern engagement rings alike! 

Cushion cuts have 58 facets, but the guidelines on this cut are very loose! This gives them an edge if you're looking for something unique, as no two will ever be the same!

Synonymous with elegance and vintage rings, the oval cut has a history to match. This gemstone shape has been around since the 1300’s! They are ideal for coloured gemstones like sapphires, as they intensify any colour in the stone. 

But if you're going for a diamond, you’ll want a high colour grade! A common issue with oval gemstones is the bowtie effect. This is when the reflections inside the gemstone create a dark band across the centre, which some people love!

Originating from Belgium, the pear cut has been dazzling us with its beauty for over 600 years!

Sometimes called a teardrop cut, the pear cut we know today is a combination of oval and marquise cuts! It’s classed as a modified brilliant cut, and has a similar level of brilliance as the round brilliant due to its 58 facets. 

Like ovals, pear cuts can suffer from the bowtie effect. Despite this, it remains a popular choice! Like oval and marquise cuts, pear cuts are great for elongating the hand.

Shop pear cut engagement rings

The baguette cut, unlike the other cuts we have seen so far, is rarely used as a centre stone. Baguette cut stones tend to be small, and are usually used as accent stones or set in eternity rings and diamond set wedding bands. 

Other than its pointed corners, the baguette cut is identical to the emerald cut! As another of the stepped cuts, and have all the benefits and issues that come with this kind of open gemstone cut.

Rose cut gemstones have a maximum of 24 facets, all on the top of the stone. This cut was designed to work best with candlelight, and comes with an inner lustre that makes these gemstones glow. 

With the growing demand for alternative jewellery, rose cuts have been making a comeback. They’re especially popular cuts for salt and pepper diamonds, as they can follow the natural gem shapes to really make the most of that shine!

Find your own rose cut stone here. Shop loose gemstones.

The Marquise or ‘Navette’ gemstone cuts are one of the few stones where you cannot have the cut without the gem shape, and with 58 facets it’s one of the gem cuts with the most sparkle!

Supposedly this unusual gemstone cut was created to mirror the lips of Louis XV’s mistress, and its popularity has continued! With an elliptical shape (think rugby ball), symmetry is crucial. If the points of the marquise aren't in line, the stone will look wonky, no matter how well it’s set!

Shop our selection of marquise engagement rings.

The asscher cut is a vintage gemstone cut pretending to be modern! Originally developed in the early 1900s it features either 58 (for the OG cut) or 74 step-cut facets (for the modern, royal asscher cut). 

This gem cut is just as glamorous in vintage or modern engagement rings, but is especially effective in art deco designs. Gemstones in this cut will need to be eye clean, however, as the open structure of an asscher cut will show any imperfections clearly. 

If you're looking for something that’s one of a kind, a modern gemstone cut could be the choice for you. Featuring the angular and geometric beauty of the latest trends, these shapes show you everything modern gem cutting can achieve!

One of the most popular gemstone cuts, the round brilliant cut is the true queen of diamonds. Since 1919, when the first round brilliant cut (RBC) was developed in London, centre stones and side stones alike have been converted to RBC’s as standard.

With 57 facets, the RBC diamond is the optimal cut for brilliance and sparkle, but it does come at a cost! All round gemstone cuts waste more of the rough, so they will cost more per carat than more economical gem shapes.

An ever popular choice, princess cuts are a staple in many traditional jewellers, and are commonly found in solitaire settings. With 57 facets, they have a similar brilliance and fire to a round brilliant cut gemstone, and so are one of the more sparkly options! 

While they are fantastic value for money (the same amount of rough diamond could be cut into two princess cuts or one round cut stone) the extended points at each corner can mean that a princess cut gemstone is prone to breaking. 

Invented in the late seventies, the radiant cut is one of the most popular gemstone cuts today. Like the emerald cut, it usually has a rectangular shape, and with 70 facets it is an incredibly beautiful cut for diamonds and coloured gemstones alike. 

This cut is a great choice if you are on a budget, but still want a stone with impact. Radiant cuts will appear larger on the hand than a round cut of the same carat, due to its shape! 

Hexagon cut gemstones are continually in demand as one of the most popular gemstone cuts! With an alternative look, this shape can be anything from gothic to ethereal in the right ring. 

Hexagonal in shape, there is no set number of facets for a hex cut gemstone. This is because the hexagon in this cut refers to the shape of the stone. Hexagon gemstones are usually either rose, brilliant, or step cut, and we love them all!

Shop our collection of hexagon cut engagement rings and find your perfect hexagon engagement ring.

One of the more unique gem shapes is the Kite Cut. It brings a modern, contemporary look to any piece of jewellery, and is the perfect choice for unique colour gemstones! This stepped cut stone may have been designed in the 1920’s, but nothing about it says vintage. 

If you’re looking for an alternative engagement ring, the kite cut is the ideal choice. If you're going for a kite cut diamond, you’ll want to pick a high colour grade and clarity, as this shape will show any inclusions! Take a look at our selection of kite cut engagement rings and discover your unique engagement ring style.

The shield cut is the bigger bolder sister of the kite, and one of the most underrated gem shapes! For any alternative engagement ring seekers it’s a must-have.

Defined by two bowed sides, and a statement silhouette, the shield cut does not have a specific number of facets. It may not be one of the most popular gemstone cuts, but it does have another claim to fame! The largest red diamond in existence is a shield cut, a jaw dropping 5.22ct!

The trillion cut is not one you’ll see often as a centre stone! Also sometimes called trilliant, this gemstone resembles a softened triangle from above. 

Traditionally a trilliant cut gem will have between 30 and 50 facets, as different styles of cut are used if the stone is likely to be an accent or centre stone. Whether your trillion is going in a shimmering solitaire, or in a trilogy engagement ring, their fantastic sparkle is sure to impress.

The trapezoid is another stone that you will only ever see as a side stone! With an angular shape made up of three shorter sides and one longer side, this cut is an art deco dream! 

As it is more of a gemstone shape, there is no standard number of facets for a trapezoid cut. They can be step or radiant cut, and are best used against an angular centre stone for a truly modern engagement ring!

Stones are usually cut so that the facets are on the outside of the stone, but this unusual gemstone cut turns it upside down, and cuts into the gemstone! The result is an amazing luminous stone like nothing else you’ll see, with a range of unique patterns.

Due to additional skill and labour required, concave stones do come at a premium, but if you're looking for something extra special, you won't find anything better!

Fantasy cut’s are the artist's answer to gemstones. While you can get fantasy cut gemstones for use in jewellery, many of these gemstones are sculptural masterpieces! 

They usually combine a mixture of concave, traditional and spherical cuts, and come with a price to match. Fantasy cut gemstones for jewellery have no standard price, but you can expect to pay around £2.5k for a simpler design in a semi-precious stone.

There are many proportion guidelines for each style of gemstone. These make sure your stone gets all the benefits of your chosen cut!

Not every cut will have these recommended ratios, and you can still find stones outside of these dimensions! But if you're looking for the ‘technical’ ideal for your cut, then take a look at our diagram:

When choosing your gem, it is important to remember that you can ignore most guidelines in favour of your taste! Some gemstones that do not fit these proportions will be the most beautiful, and will leave you with a stunningly unique engagement ring!

No one wants a badly cut gemstone. But even with a perfect cut, the wrong style could make your stone's value plummet! 

When deciding what to do with a stone, there are so many things to consider. The shape, colour, and quality of the rough stone can all change which cut is best. An emerald cut would be a nightmare for any stone with lots of inclusions (unless they are part of the appeal - like in salt and pepper diamonds) as they will all be clearly visible.

Choosing the right stone for you or your partner is not always simple and there are a few things you should consider before choosing your gemstone cut:

Think of your priorities. If you want a perfect diamond, choose a cut that will show off that sparkle.

Gemstones with sharp points are more likely to catch, and this can damage your gemstone. Choosing a complimentary design with V claws or a bezel setting can help safeguard your jewellery for years to come.

If you are looking for a big stone on a budget, you’ll want to look for something like a radiant cut! You’ll get more for your money, and more for your ring!